I saw this in a recent surf magazine. It struck me.
And so, with you... I share:
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Foam: Fiberglass: Fabric: Fun
Isn't this really all you need?
Local or transplant. Shortboarder or longboarder. Goofy or regular. Grom or veteran. Guys or girls. Amatuers or pros. Tow-in, paddle-in, chop hop or power turns. Boat trips, beach breaks, billion-dollar brands or backyard businesses. High fashion, anti-fashion, fashionista, fashion victim, art scene or action sport. Lifestyle or marketing ploy. In the know or outta the loop. Sanctioned or non-santioned. Copy cats or innovators. Leaders or followers. Hierarchy or anarchy. Oil or religion. Democrat or Republican. War or Peace.
When did life get so complicated? Simplify. Just add water.
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I've been spending more time in the water lately. My shoulder is responding well to the PT and I've finally graduated to the point where I can surf again. I've been playing with some longerboards that my generous friends are willing to share with me. I've decided the 9'6 is too long. I quite enjoy the 9'0 though. But still, the 7'7 is more fun. Perhaps I'll find somthing around 8'3-8'5ish. I love it. Long or short. I love being in that water. It grounds me, and sets me free.
Rusty nailed it... simplify - just add water.
